RV Breaker Panel Service in Palm City

Three common reasons: you're overloading the circuit by running too many appliances at once, there's a short circuit somewhere on that circuit's wiring, or the breaker itself has worn out and trips at lower amperage than it should. Breakers do wear out over time, especially in RVs where vibration loosens connections. We test both the breaker and the circuit to figure out which problem you've got.

In many cases, yes. The upgrade involves replacing the shore power inlet, power cord, breaker panel, and main breaker. Sometimes the existing wire gauge from the inlet to the panel needs upgrading too. It's a substantial job but it lets you run two AC units and heavy appliances simultaneously. We'll inspect your wiring and give you an honest assessment of whether your rig can support the upgrade.

A GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) monitors the current flowing out and coming back on a circuit. If there's any imbalance, meaning current is leaking to ground through water, a person, or damaged insulation, it trips in milliseconds. Modern RV codes require GFCI protection for bathroom outlets, kitchen countertop outlets, exterior outlets, and any outlet within six feet of water. Older RVs often lack them.

Signs include breakers that won't stay reset, visible corrosion or discoloration on the bus bars, a burning smell coming from the panel, melted wire insulation inside the panel box, or breakers that feel loose when you flip them. If your panel is more than 15-20 years old and you're having recurring electrical issues, an upgrade is usually smarter than continuing to patch individual problems.

It depends on whether your panel has open slots and whether your main breaker can handle the additional load. Some RV panels have spare knockouts for additional breakers. If yours is full, we can sometimes combine low-draw circuits or install a sub-panel. The main limitation is your total amperage capacity, so we calculate your load before adding anything.

A straightforward panel swap where the new panel mounts in the same location takes about 3-4 hours. That includes disconnecting all circuits from the old panel, mounting the new one, reconnecting and labeling every circuit, and then testing each one individually. A 30-to-50 amp upgrade takes longer, usually 5-7 hours, because of the additional wiring and inlet work involved.