Dead batteries, tripping breakers, flickering lights, blown converters. We've fixed all of it. Our techs trace every wire and test every connection until your RV's electrical system works the way it should. On-site service throughout Martin County.
A modern RV runs two separate electrical systems at the same time. The 120V AC side handles your outlets, microwave, and air conditioner. The 12V DC side powers everything else: lights, water pump, slideout motors, LP detector, and your refrigerator's control board. When something goes wrong, it's rarely obvious which system is the culprit.
That's where we come in. We've been diagnosing and repairing RV electrical problems across Martin County for over 14 years. We don't guess. We bring professional multimeters and clamp meters to trace voltage drops, test amperage draw, and find the exact point of failure. Whether you're parked at a Palm City campground or sitting in your driveway, we come to you.
We don't work on engines, transmissions, or chassis electrical systems. What we do is handle everything inside the coach. Shore power connections, converter output, battery banks, breaker panels, individual circuits, and every wire in between.
Four steps from phone call to finished repair. No mysteries.
Call or message us. Describe what's happening: no power, flickering, tripping, burning smell. The more detail you share, the faster we can narrow it down.
We test the entire electrical path. Shore connection, transfer switch, panel, converter output, battery voltage, and individual circuits. We measure everything.
Once we know what's wrong, you get a clear number. Parts, labor, everything included. No hourly billing surprises. You approve before we start.
We fix the problem and then load-test the system. AC running, lights on, appliances going. We confirm everything holds before we leave.
Florida's heat and humidity aren't kind to RV wiring. Salt air from the coast accelerates corrosion on battery terminals, shore power connections, and exposed junction boxes. Here in Palm City, we see the same issues over and over.
Shore power problems are the most common call. The connection between the campground pedestal and your RV takes a beating from weather, repeated plugging and unplugging, and heat buildup. Melted plugs, burned inlets, and corroded prongs account for about 30% of our electrical service calls. A replacement shore power inlet runs $85-180 depending on whether it's 30 or 50 amp.
Battery problems come in second. Lead-acid batteries in Florida rarely last beyond 3 years because the heat accelerates sulfation. You'll notice dim lights, a sluggish water pump, or slides that move slower than usual. We test each battery individually under load, not just with a surface voltage reading. That's the only way to know if a battery is actually holding capacity or just showing a decent resting voltage.
Converter failures are third on the list. Your converter takes 120V shore power and converts it to 12V DC for your coach systems while also charging your batteries. When it fails, your 12V lights and fans still work off battery power, but the batteries slowly drain. A lot of people don't realize the converter is failing until their batteries die completely. Replacement typically runs $275-500 for the unit, plus 2-3 hours of labor.
Six focused repair areas covering every part of your RV's electrical system.
Melted plugs, burned inlets, loose pedestal connections, and power cord replacement. We fix the connection between the grid and your coach, including 30-to-50 amp adapter issues.
Learn moreLoad testing, terminal cleaning, bank rewiring, disconnect switch repair, and full upgrades from lead-acid to lithium. We size the right battery bank for how you actually use your RV.
Learn moreConverter testing, replacement, and multi-stage charging upgrades. Inverter installation, troubleshooting, and wiring. We match the right unit to your power needs and battery type.
Learn moreShort circuit tracing, open circuit diagnosis, wire gauge upgrades, junction box repairs, and full rewiring for older coaches. We chase the problem through walls and ceilings until we find it.
Learn moreBreaker replacement, panel upgrades, GFCI installation, circuit mapping, and load balancing. If breakers keep tripping or you need more circuits, we'll sort it out properly.
Learn moreFixture replacement, dimmer installation, under-cabinet LEDs, exterior accent lighting, and awning light upgrades. Cut your 12V draw in half while getting better light output.
Learn more
An electrical issue that starts as a minor annoyance, a flickering light here, a slow-to-start water pump there, almost always gets worse. Loose connections create heat. Heat melts insulation. Melted insulation causes shorts. Shorts trip breakers or, in the worst case, start fires.
We've pulled melted wire bundles out of RVs that started as a simple corroded terminal someone ignored for six months. In Florida's summer heat, your RV's wiring is already operating at higher temperatures than it was designed for. Adding a bad connection on top of that accelerates the damage dramatically.
The smart move is to get electrical problems diagnosed early. A $95 diagnostic visit can prevent a $2,000 rewiring job down the road. And according to the National Fire Protection Association, electrical failures are one of the leading causes of RV fires.
| Service | Typical Price Range |
|---|---|
| Electrical Diagnostic | $95 - $135 |
| Shore Power Inlet Replacement | $85 - $225 |
| Battery Testing & Terminal Service | $50 - $95 |
| Battery Replacement (per battery) | $150 - $400 |
| Converter Replacement | $275 - $650 |
| Inverter Installation | $350 - $1,200 |
| Wiring Repair (per circuit) | $150 - $400 |
| Breaker Panel Upgrade | $400 - $900 |
| LED Lighting Upgrade (whole coach) | $200 - $600 |
| Full Rewiring | $900 - $2,800 |
Prices vary by RV size, parts required, and job complexity. You'll always get an exact quote before work begins.
A diagnostic service call starts at $95-135 depending on what we need to test. Straightforward wiring repairs run $150-400. Converter or inverter replacement typically costs $275-650 including the part and labor. Full panel upgrades or rewiring jobs range from $900-2,800 based on your RV's size and how much wiring needs replacement.
This usually means you're pulling more amps than the pedestal breaker can handle, or there's a short somewhere in your RV's wiring. Running the AC plus a microwave on a 30-amp connection will trip it every time. It could also be a bad power cord, corroded connections at the plug, or a failing transfer switch. We test the whole path from the pedestal to your panel to pinpoint it.
Sometimes, but it depends on your wiring. A 30-to-50 amp upgrade means replacing the power cord, inlet, breaker panel, and potentially running heavier gauge wire throughout the coach. On some older rigs, the existing wire gauge just won't support it safely. We'll inspect everything first and give you an honest answer about whether the upgrade makes sense for your situation.
Nine times out of ten, it's the converter. The converter takes your 120V shore power and steps it down to 12V to run lights, fans, slides, and charge batteries. When it fails, your 12V system goes dead even though outlets and AC still work. Could also be a blown fuse on the 12V side, a bad battery disconnect switch, or corroded battery terminals.
Simple jobs like replacing an outlet, fixing a loose connection, or swapping a blown fuse take 30-45 minutes. Converter replacement runs 2-3 hours. Tracing a short circuit through the walls can take 1-4 hours depending on where the problem hides. Full panel replacement or rewiring work is usually a full-day job.
Yes, we handle both sides. The 12V DC system covers your lights, water pump, slideout motors, fans, and LP gas detector. The 120V AC side covers outlets, microwave, AC units, and anything that plugs in. We also work on the devices that bridge the two systems, like converters, inverters, and transfer switches.
It depends on how you use your RV. If you boondock regularly or dry camp at rallies, lithium batteries are a big upgrade. They're lighter, charge faster, last 3-5 times longer, and you can use 80-100% of their capacity versus 50% with lead-acid. For someone who mostly stays at full-hookup sites, the investment might not pay off. A pair of quality 100Ah lithium batteries runs $400-800.
All of them. We work on Winnebago, Thor, Jayco, Forest River, Keystone, Coachmen, Tiffin, Newmar, Fleetwood, Airstream, Grand Design, Heartland, Entegra, and every other brand out there. Each manufacturer has their own wiring quirks, but after 14 years we've seen them all. Motorhomes, fifth wheels, travel trailers, toy haulers, and van conversions.
It can be. GFCI outlets trip when they detect a ground fault, which is a current leak. In RVs, this happens a lot because of moisture getting into outdoor outlets, a bad appliance on the circuit, or worn wire insulation touching the frame. Florida's humidity doesn't help. Sometimes the GFCI itself has gone bad. We test the outlet and every device on that circuit to find the culprit.
The longer you wait, the more damage spreads. We'll come to your location, find the issue, and give you a firm price. No obligation.
Call 772-271-5270